I started out with fuel upgrades. I purchased an OBX fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail and a high flow fuel filter. These were all necessary for upcoming performance upgrades, plus they look cool. Then I upgraded the clutch to a center force dual friction racing clutch and the stock flywheel was changed to a clutch masters lightweight design that only weighs 8 pounds and has a replaceable contact patch and starter teeth. I also went with an obx stainless header, a 4-2-1 design, and got an aluminum intake pipe and a K&N filter. The axles were custom made by a company called Raxles and they say their stage 2’s are good and up to 400 hp and they look great.

Putting the motor in is not that bad. I separated the H22 from the tranny and then took the hoist and put it on the floor in the engine bay. Then I bolted the transmission up to it and installed the rear mount and transmission mount because it’s a lot easier before it’s in the car. There is a bolt on the transmission mount that needs to be cut down to clear the frame rail after this is done. Start to pull the motor up into place once you have it in the correct alignment. Put the bolts in the mounts and bolt the driver’s side mount on once the motor is secure. Then put the new axles in along with the intermediate shaft and start putting the suspension back together. Take the shifter cables and hook them up to the transmission, then start plugging up the wiring into the main harness. Then run new heater hoses. For the radiator hoses I used the stock Prelude 92-95 pieces, the bottom one fits fine, but I had cut down the top so it would fit properly.

After that I hooked up the fuel lines, vacuum lines and hydraulic lines and installed the crank pulley, the alternator and the belts. Then I installed the starter. Once every thing was hooked up I went back through to check for anything missed and made sure all of the bolts were tight. Then it was time to fill the fluids and install the battery. I checked thoroughly for fuel leaks. To do this just turn the key on and the pump will run. You might have to do that several times to get the fuel to the rail. Once pressure has built up and there are no leaks, go through and check to make sure everything is hooked up properly and nothing is loose in the engine compartment, like tools, bolts, nuts, etc. If everything is good to go and it was done properly it will fire right up with no check engine light.    

I would like to thank Ryan from umiperformance.com. He gave me an awesome deal on a custom part for the H22. I was very impressed with his craftsmanship. The part he made for me is called a helix boar throttle body spacer and yes, they do make these for most applications, but not for mine until now. This part is special because I had him put a port in the back side for a future upgrade, which will make a world of difference. This part is made to improve low-end throttle response and to spin the air as it comes into the intake to help charge the intake.

Success! The motor is running properly and now it’s time to put it all back together. After I got that done I went to my buddy Troy’s shop, TJ Mufflers, and we put a nice 21/2 in. custom exhaust on with a quiet free flow muffler and a stock looking exhaust tip. This setup is truly amazing; this car is very light and fast. Unfortunately I have not had it to the track yet to see what it actually runs. If I had to guess I would say high 12s to low 13s on street tires, but we will see what it turns in the NOPI event at gateway in July.

Previous Story
Project Muscrate — 8/24/04
Part 5: Fuel and ignition systems
Back-2-Basics — 8/17/04
Back-2-Basics II makes its debut
Changes for Project Street FX — 8/9/04


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