I have been using the Sonnax dual ring billet servo and an OEM cover. These use two special rings that look like rubber but are a made specifically to operate in hot
 This is about the only time you see the dual ring servo. It moves the sealing surface away from where the old single ring style could have worn a groove and could be leaking. A good seal here creates a crisp release of the band when trans is shifted to high gear. |
The valve body and the options you have could take an entire article. There is basically one decision you need to make. If you have one in the transmission now and are happy with it’s operation, just use it again.
If you think it is time to upgrade I recommend the “double-dump” style valve body. Commonly referred to as the “Pro-Brake”. It offers two channels for fluid to travel through when you release the transbrake which means quicker reaction times. It has a “safe reverse” which means if have to engage the transbrake button and have the shifter in reverse before you can back up. This means if you accidentally bump the shifter past the neutral lock-out in the shutdown area it won’t go into reverse and lock the tires unless you also hit the transbrake button.
The most important thing about valve bodies is to “follow the instructions explicably” and you will have no problems.
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My only tip that I can give you on valve bodies is if you take it apart to clean it up just make sure you torque it back together. I start in the middle and work out in a circle and torque the bolts to 18 to 20 ft./lbs.
When you install the valve body there are seven attaching bolts. When installing the valve body you need to pay attention to a couple things. Make sure the shift lever sits in the spool valve slot and the steel tube on the valve-body slips into the hole in the case. Both of these have to be lined up when you install it. Torque the bolts down and you are ready to continue.
Next up is the low band adjustment. Turn the adjusting bolt in and tighten it to 72 in/lbs. Then back it out 3 ¾ turns. I recommend adjusting the band every 15 –20 runs. Some racers say this is not needed. Some racers think this is probably to often. It is a simple operation and I choose to do it and recommend my customers do the same.
Front Pump and Final Assembly.
Now you are getting close to being done. Look over your work bench and makes sure you haven’t “forgotten” something. Just take a few minutes and make sure you don’t have a “spare” seal, thrust washer or spring lying on the workbench.
The front pump needs to have the two sealing rings installed as does the input shaft. I fill the ring grooves with trans assembly gel and when I put the rings in the groove the gel holds them in place and makes them easy to install. If you nick one or see a flaw in it, get a new one. They are cheap and at the same time, very important to the operation of the transmission. 
I take a couple 3” long - 5/16” NC bolts, cut the head off and round off the end so I can use them as alignment pins to sit the pump down on. This helps keep the pump gasket in place and centers the pump as it goes in so the sealing rings slide into the high drum easily.
Put the large O-ring on the pump, make sure it is not twisted and coat it liberally with assembly lube. As you slide it over the alignment pins keep it as level as possible. Put the special washers or O-rings on the pump bolts and tighten them up in a criss-cross pattern. Final torque is 18 to 20 ft./lbs.
If everything slid into place correctly you will have a leak-free front pump.
(If you are using a J-W Ultra-Bell they have special front bolts and O-rings. Follow their instructions and you will have no problems).
Next up is the oil filter installation on the valve body. If you have a deep pan you need a matching oil filter extension to lower the filter into the deeper sump. I recommend the screen type filter over the woven cloth style. The screen can be washed off during regular maintenance or if you are at the track and have the pan off for something.
