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Odds and Ends: A strange name for parts that probably cost you $3,000-plus dollars but it’s real. We chose a Comp Cams belt drive for the camshaft, ATI Super Damper, MSD Billet distributor and MSD Crank Trigger set up to fire the Denso plugs through MSD plug wires. We are using an off-the-shelf Quick Fuel FX-4712, 1250cfm gas carb that we used the last couple seasons and on the dyno the metering was just about perfect.
Protecting the investment made in the engine and components: We talked to Canton Racing Products several times about their Accumulators, oil filters and adapters. Their quality is superb and their tech support was flawless getting us set up so we can hit the ignition switch, wait a couple seconds and watch the oil pressure gauge climb to about 50 psi before we spin the Ohio Crank 565” over. The engine sits for two or three weeks sometimes and I believe getting oil pressure to the bearings before it is cranked over, under the 14:1 compression, is nothing but a great way to protect parts. We also installed 110-volt block heaters on both sides of the block and an internal oil heater in the oil pan to get the block and oil up to about 150 degrees before we start it.
I want to mention our choice of race oil as one of last comments. We all know there are a lot of “race oils” and “snake oils” out there to choose from. Currently we are using Schaeffer Oils #705 Supreme 7000 20/50 Race Oil. We have used Schaeffer Race Oils for several years and also use their #315 Simplex Supreme Extreme Pressure torque converter fluid for the Powerglide. Rather than go into details about “Oil Analysis” by Specialty Labs I will save that until next month. I am a strong believer in Virgin Oil Analysis (VOA) so you know what you bought and then Used Oil Analysis (UOA) to monitor wear in the engines. I sample the race engines and motor home oils.
Watch for our “The Right Race Oil for You” tech coming in February.