Then I flipped the engine over and installed the main bearings. I used Federal Mogul “H” bearings (#129M), which are the competition version also known as “ugly” bearings due to the lack of the phoofy tin flash plating used on other bearings. These bearings have proven their worth to me over the years and I use them whenever possible. Having previously checked the clearances during pre-assembly I know that I have .003” clearance in the mains. That’s a little on the loose side, but will work well in this application. I wiped a little assembly grease on the bearings, installed the rear main seal, oiled it, and dropped in the Ohio Crankshaft 4340 crank. I then installed the bearings in the caps, installed the caps -- a light smattering (technical term) of silicone is applied between the rear main cap and block to prevent seepage -- snugged up the bolts enough to seat the caps in the block registers, and moved on to assembling the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
This shows the plate installed with the flush mount fasteners. Nice piece!
For rings I am using Plasma Moly filled file fit MAHLE brand tops, CP Pistons “Taper Hook” back-cut seconds, and MAHLE low tension oil rings. During one of the pre-assemblies I gapped the piston rings to .018” top and .024” second. The top ring gap is a little larger than you may be used to because the block is filled and cannot expand as much as a non-filled block. The larger second ring gap is something I have done for years and it is now a pretty common practice. If any compression gets past the top ring it is better to let it escape past the second ring as opposed to getting trapped in between and unseating the top ring. The design of the “Taper Hook” second ring is so effective at controlling oil that the oil ring can be a very low tension design, like 4 lbs.!
The pistons and connecting rods were laid out on the bench with the chamfered side of the rods facing the correct direction for the cylinders they will be installed into (four forward, four rearward) and using the assembly lube (Torco MPZ) supplied by KB Pistons, the pins, pin bores, and connecting rod small end were coated and everything slid together. Then, the pain in the butt but highly effective Spiro lock pin retainers were carefully installed. Federal Mogul Rod bearings (#8-7160 CH) were snapped into place, and the rings installed. After wiping down the cylinder bores with a thin film of oil and applying oil to the piston shirts and rings all eight assemblies were carefully installed.
The rod bearing clearance previously checked out at .0027” and I have a side clearance of .024”. The connecting rod bolts supplied with the Ohio H beams are the ARP 2000 series and require an average bolt stretch of .006” or 75 lb.ft. using the ARP lube. After liberally coating the bolt threads and underside of the head I set my stretch gauge to “0” and tightened the bolt to 75 lb.ft. I then installed the stretch gauge and had a reading of .004”. Not enough. I loosened the bolt and this time I tightened it to 85 lb.ft. Checking again I now had a stretch of .006”. Right on the money! Then, I followed the same procedure of tightening to 75, loosening, then re-tightening to 85 lb.ft. for the remaining bolts while checking every other one along the way. This is why you should use a stretch gauge. Then it doesn’t really matter if your torque wrench is completely accurate (I hope it is though) or you didn’t use the right lube, and you will have the peace of mind knowing your rod bolts are properly tightened.
Next issue I will degree the Comp Cams solid roller camshaft, modify and install the Moroso windage tray, install the Moroso Eliminator oil pan, and all sorts of other things to finally button up the new “Hemi-eater”. I hope you’ll come back for more!
Remember, there is always hope and, when in doubt… DO A WHEELIE!
Sources
COMP CAMS |
MOROSO PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS 80 Carter Dr. Guilford, CT 06437 203-453-6571 www.moroso.com |
