The first step is to install the main caps with the hardware you will actually be using, which in this case is the ARP bolts that the Moroso main cap girdle came with. The Moroso cap girdle has proven its viability to me the last couple of years by helping keep the block in one piece that is currently in Muscrate. This is very important because you want to stress the block just as it will be in final assembly and the block filler will help hold the dimensions. Here is the block (below left) after being filled with the Moroso main cap girdle and my deck plate installed. Let simmer a couple of days and we’re good to go!
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 This is showing how far up the block filler comes into the water pump inlet. Ah, the miracles of duct tape! |
As the picture shows, I filled to within one inch of the deck and half way up the water pump inlet holes at the front of the block. I really don’t care if I get much water circulating in the block at the tops of the bores because everything else will be built and clearanced accordingly, such as piston clearance and ring gaps. I do care, however, about water being able to flow through the RHS heads, which is why I leave an opening at the front of the block where the water pump inlet is and the top inch of the block.
The filling process is pretty simple it’s just kind of a pain in the butt and the most important thing is to mix the filler according to directions and use some kind of stiff wire or such to work the filler around as best you can in the passages to assure a consistent fill.
Once the filling is done I bolt on a “deck plate” which simulates the stresses of head bolts or studs in final assembly. This is the same deck plate that will be used in final honing. After that make sure to level the block in all directions so that the block filler sets up evenly. Now it’s just a matter of waiting at least 24 hours for the filler to dry and repeating the above steps all over again on the other side. I personally prefer to let the filler cure for at least a couple of days before switching sides just to make sure it’s all cured. When the block is filled it will weigh more but it will be tremendously stronger around the cylinder bores, which will give a much better ring seal and consequently more power!
While waiting for the filler to cure I decided to begin the balancing operation of the rotating assembly. This is where the fun starts! The basic idea of balancing an engine is to weight match as closely as possible all of the pistons and connecting rods to each other and then weigh the rod bearings, rings, wrist pins and pin locks so that all of those weights can be duplicated into what is known as a “bob weight.” The bob weight is what is clamped onto the crankshaft on all four of the rod journals (in the case of a V-8) and simulates the weight of the components that were weighed. Then when the crankshaft is spun by the balancer the sensors and the software of the balancer will determine if the counterweights of the crankshaft are basically either too heavy or too light to “counter balance” the bob weight. Simple as trigonometry right?
Actually, with a newer digital balancer like I have the machine does all of the calculating and even shows me on the computer screen where the weight needs to be added or taken away. It’s a matter of the machinist drilling holes in precise locations and depths to remove weight or drilling holes in the cheeks of the counterweights at predetermined locations and pressing in what is commonly known as “heavy metal.” Normally the adding of heavy metal adds more weight than is required and then the machinist will remove the right amount to get as close to perfect as possible. It can be a very time consuming operation, especially if weight needs to be added, but it is well worth the effort and money spent to have an engine that runs smoothly and lasts longer. That covers the basic principles of balancing but I’ll show you a little more detail just for giggles.